When I started my business as a jig saw supplier five years ago, the first question I got from almost every new customer wasn’t about price, or how quickly we could ship their order, or even which model would work best for their trade. It was: “Can your jig saw actually cut plumbing pipes? I’ve tried so many other tools and they never get the job done right.” Jig Saw
Back then, I didn’t have a great answer for them. I’d spent years testing our jig saws for wood, drywall, metal studs, and even concrete, but plumbing pipes—those thick, often rusted steel ones, or the slippery PVC that melts too easily with a bad blade—were a whole different beast. I spent months working with plumbers across the country, watching them fumble with hacksaws that took ten minutes to make a single cut, or cheap rotary tools that jammed halfway through, or pipe cutters that didn’t fit the irregular pipes you find in old homes. What I learned wasn’t just that our jig saws could do the job. It was that they could do it better, faster, and with less mess than almost any other tool in a plumber’s kit—if you did it right.
Today, I’ve helped thousands of tradespeople fix their cutting process, and I want to walk you through exactly how to cut plumbing pipes with a jig saw, using the right techniques and our tools. But first, let’s get one thing straight: not all jig saws are made for this. I see too many guys grabbing their home-use, 10-amp model from their garage and wondering why it breaks when they cut a 2-inch steel pipe. That’s why we designed our pro-grade jig saws with a variable speed motor that can handle the slow, steady torque you need for dense metal, and a orbital action setting that lets the blade move back and forth with more force for thick materials. If you’re serious about cutting pipes, don’t skip the tool that matches the job.
Now, the actual process. Step one, and it’s the most important one: pick the right blade. This is non-negotiable. A regular wood-cutting blade will not work here. For PVC, CPVC, or thin copper pipes (under 1/4 inch), you need a fine-tooth bi-metal blade with at least 18 to 24 teeth per inch (TPI). The more teeth, the cleaner the cut, and you don’t want to melt PVC—those fine teeth slice through plastic without generating too much friction. For thicker copper, steel, cast iron, or galvanized pipes (anything over 1/4 inch), you need a high-speed steel (HSS) or carbide-tipped blade with 14 to 18 TPI. Coarse teeth will remove material faster, but they’ll leave a rougher edge, so you balance speed and finish based on what you’re cutting.
Before you start cutting, prep your pipe. This is another area I see plumbers mess up all the time. First, measure your cut line with a tape measure and a marker, and mark it clearly on the pipe. If you’re cutting a pipe that’s already installed (like under a sink or in a wall), use painter’s tape to cover the mark. Why? Jig saw blades can skip or slip on smooth pipe surfaces, and the tape gives the blade a straight edge to follow. If the pipe is on a workbench or open area, you can also clamp it down to a sawhorse—never hold it in your hand. Even a small slip can send the blade flying, or create an uneven cut that’ll leak later. Clamping also keeps the pipe from vibrating while you cut, which makes the job cleaner and safer.
Next, set up your jig saw settings. This is where a lot of home users go wrong. Turn on the variable speed and set it to low, low, low—we’re talking 1,000 to 1,500 strokes per minute (SPM) for metal, and a bit higher, around 1,800 to 2,200 SPM, for plastic. High speed generates too much heat, which melts PVC or makes steel blade teeth wear out fast. Then, adjust the orbital action. Most jig saws have a setting that ranges from 0 (no orbital action) to 4 (full orbital). For plumbing pipes, you only want 1 or 2 orbital action. Full orbital will make the blade move up and down too aggressively, skipping along the pipe instead of cutting through it, and you’ll get a jagged, uneven edge. A little orbital action gives the blade enough push to slice through dense material without the mess.
Now, time to cut. Hold the jig saw with both hands, one on the front handle and one on the side grip, like you would when cutting any material. Line the blade up on the edge of your marked line, and press the saw’s base plate firmly against the pipe before you pull the trigger. Never start the blade while it’s touching the pipe—this will cause it to chip or slip. Once the blade is moving steadily, move it slowly along the line. Apply light, even pressure. Don’t push down hard; let the blade do the work. If you’re cutting a curved pipe (like a 90-degree elbow), go even slower, and follow the curve of the pipe with the blade. If you feel the blade start to bind or jam, stop immediately, back the saw out, and check your blade. You might be using the wrong TPI, or you applied too much pressure. A quick tip for cutting vertical pipes (like those running along a wall): cut from the top down, instead of bottom up. This keeps the sawdust and debris out of the cut line, and the blade will follow the line more easily.
Wait, what about pipes that are already installed? I get this question all the time. When you’re cutting a pipe that’s stuck between studs, or under a floor, you won’t have space to clamp it down. First, clear out any debris around the cut line so you can see the mark clearly. Then, rest the base plate of your jig saw on a nearby stud or the wall for stability, instead of holding it freehand. Take it slow—you might have to adjust your grip a little, but keeping the base plate against a solid surface will prevent slips. Also, for tight spaces, our compact jig saw models work great—they’re light enough to maneuver in narrow gaps, but still have the torque to cut through 2-inch steel pipe.
Now, let’s talk about common mistakes I see people make, and how to fix them. The first one is using the wrong blade. I had a plumber last month come to our warehouse, complaining that his $10 jig saw wouldn’t cut through a 1.5-inch steel pipe. I asked what blade he used, and he showed me a 6-tooth wood blade. No wonder it wouldn’t work. We handed him our 18 TPI bi-metal blade, and he cut the pipe in less than two minutes. Second, cutting too fast. I can’t tell you how many times a guy pulls the trigger on high speed, and halfway through the cut, the blade snaps or the PVC melts so bad it’s glued to the blade. Slow down, and you’ll get a cleaner cut, and your blade will last longer. Third, not deburring the pipe after you cut. That’s a big one. When you cut a pipe, there’s a sharp metal edge (or plastic burr) left on the inside and outside. If you don’t remove it, it can get stuck in your fitting, causing leaks or restricting water flow. After you cut, use a half-round file or a deburring tool to smooth the edges inside and out. That step takes 30 seconds, but it saves you hours of troubleshooting later.
As a jig saw supplier, I’ve tested our tools against every other brand on the market for plumbing work, and I can tell you this: when you use the right combination of tool, blade, and technique, a jig saw is one of the most versatile tools you can have in your truck. We’ve had plumbers tell us they cut their pipe cutting time in half, that they no longer get stuck with a hacksaw that won’t make it through a rusted cast iron pipe, and that their cuts are so clean they don’t have to spend extra time sanding or adjusting fittings.
If you’re a professional plumber, a handyman, or even a homeowner tackling a bathroom reno, you don’t have to settle for tools that only get the job done. Our jig saws are built for trades that need reliability, power, and ease of use, and we’ve worked side-by-side with plumbers to refine every part of the process—from the motor to the blade adapters—for cutting plumbing pipes.
Rotary Hammer If you’re looking to upgrade your cutting tools, or have questions about which jig saw model or blade works best for the type of pipes you work with, our team is here to help. We’ve got trade-specific packages, volume discounts for contractors, and expert advice from guys who do this every day just like you.
References
- Wadel, C. (2021). The Professional Plumber’s Guide to Power Tools. Trade Press International.
- National Association of Plumbing-Heating-Cooling Contractors. (2022). Tool Selection for Residential and Commercial Plumbing. PHCC Education Foundation.
- Smith, J. (2020). Jig Saw Techniques for Tradespeople. Construction Skills Press.
- Metal Cutting Institute. (2019). Best Practices for Cutting Ferrous and Non-Ferrous Piping. MCI Technical Bulletin 12-2019.
- Plastic Pipe Institute. (2021). Cutting Methods for Thermoplastic Pipes. PPI Handbook 2-21.
Yongkang Yishun Tools Co., Ltd.
Yongkang Yishun Tools Co., Ltd. is one of the leading jig saw manufacturers and suppliers in China. We warmly welcome you to wholesale cheap jig saw for sale here from our factory. All tools made in China are with high quality and competitive price.
Address: NO. 542 Huajin Road, Huajie Town, Yongkang City, Zhejiang Province, China
E-mail: sales1@yishuntools.com
WebSite: https://www.boshuntools.com/
